I have to be honest, I have been super fortunate to have had countless opportunities this year to do some amazing things, big and small. One that is definitely near the top of that list is climbing Japan’s tallest mountain: Mt. Fuji. I’m quite surprised that I have yet to make a Japanese friend who has made the journey. At 12,388 feet (3776 m) it is by no means a leisurely hike, but anyone can do it! I had originally planned on heading up the active/critical state volcano at the start of the season, but I am glad that didn’t work out because I was by no means prepared. I ended up heading to Fuji during the busiest three days of the year right in the middle of the Obon season, when Japanese celebrate the deceased. Consequently, I opted to take one of the less traveled paths to avoid any potential crowds. Maybe I’m just a masochist as well. I would recommend doing what 99.99% of Fuji climbers do, and taking a bus to the 5th station of one of the trails rather than climbing from the very bottom of the mountain. This in itself will take 6-8 hours to reach the 8th station. Before you head out you can get a walking stick (in varying lengths) that is branded for $2 at every station you reach as you go up the mountain. One brand can be seen on the sign just below. Note that the most popular and probably easiest trail, Yoshida, also has the most stations. I took the Subashiri Trail which only had a few stations.
I must say, for someone who gets caught in storms in Seattle all the time, I’ve had oddly good luck with weather in Japan. My morning at the base of Fuji was graced with a break from the direct sunlight and insufferable mix of heat and humidity that has been seemingly incessant across Japan. It was even kind of chilly, which was a perfect way to start out. I even saw fog for the first time in Japan. I obviously don’t know the reality of the crowd situation on the Yoshida Trail, but I met few other climbers on my way up and got to soak in a bunch of great scenery. The weather on Fuji is volatile. As evidence by the half stripped trees I saw, the winds can often be severe. All the way up various little Shinto alters can be found to help you on your way.
I had never climbed a mountain before this. Additionally, the hikes on my resume are probably all considered mild at best. This laborious endeavor sorely challenged my legs and endurance before I even made it above the clouds.
My trip was met with further obstacles when I was unable to reach the mountain hut I planned to sleep in before dark. I had selected the one at the highest station (8.5) and so I ended up climbing for 7.5 hours, including breaks. None of the mountain huts are cheap, and they are all most likely similar to the loud and cramped can of sardines I was shoved into. The few winks I got were better than nothing though, and they were appreciated when I headed out at 3:30AM to try and catch the sunrise from the summit. For seemingly no reason at all, everyone else in my hut got up at 2:00AM and quite discourteously made as much ruckus as they could before standing around making idle chatter. Even if you take lots of breaks you definitely do not need more than 1.5 hours to reach the summit from the 8.5 station. This is a fact, not an opinion. You also have a pretty unobstructed view after leaving the last station, so there isn’t a dire need to rush to the very top. Also, do not bullet climb (climb straight/climb overnight)! It is very dangerous and unnecessary with reasonable planning. Aside from my bitterness over lack of sleep compounded by physical exhaustion, it was pretty trippy seeing all the headlamps bobbing up the mountainside as far as the eye can see in both directions. Not everyone gets to make it to the summit or even see the sunrise if they do due to weather conditions, but I’ve always had more luck than sense. That bewitching sight will stick with me to the very end, no doubt.
I truly felt like a god looking out across the horizon and witnessing the awe exuding from those of us gathered on the summit.
Of course at the top there is a nice little shrine alongside the postal service stall and refreshment stands. The seal of Hongu Sengen Shrine is the mot expensive one I’ve recieved (at 1000Yen) but it is also one of the coolest, with a deep crimson ink that is distinct from the standard used in other seals. By chance, my arrival coincided with the twelfth year in a cycle which involves a special seal being provided by the shrine. Being who I am, I had to get both. I haven’t figured out the details of the cycle yet, but it seems to not be exclusive to one shrine, as I went on to receive one with the same schedule in Nara. As tempting as it may be given your exhaustion upon reaching the top, don’t forget to go gander at the crater!
In the research I did for my trip, there was very little written about the descent, which took me over four hours. This is unfortunate, because at least for the Subashiri Trail, the descending trail is just a never ending volcanic gravel slide. It was hard to believe how long it took before I was back below the clouds. I was thoroughly coated in dust when I reached the bottom, and because it happened to be a weekend I had just missed the last bus for a couple hours. Making the best of it, I got a nice Fuji shaped curry rice.
As I mentioned before, there is so much useful information that is not published online (at least in English), like bus schedules. I’ll be posting the pamphlets I picked up shortly.
“If you come to Japan and don’t climb Mt. Fuji, you’re a fool; but if you climb it more than once, you’re an even bigger fool.”
Pro Tip #107: I was pretty lucky and did not have any significant elevation sickness. You need to give yourself time to adjust or you may not be able to continue. Make sure to take a break at the 5th station before you start your ascent and remain hydrated and well nourished.
Pro Tip #107: You will be paying $2 to use any of the sparse bathrooms you can find, and sustenance will not be delicious or cheap. Take this in to consideration, along with the physical exertion and lack of any trash cans while you carefully pack.
Pro Tip #107: This is a real volcano and should not be underestimated. You need seriously awesome boots (I observed the results of lacking these), and clothing you would wear in high snowy mountains for skiing and such. Layers, layers, layers. This is applicable even in the dead of summer.
Pro Tip #107: If you’re going to buy expensive food it might as well be cute.
Pro Tip #107: Don’t forget to look up, whether you’re in a temple, on a mountain, or walking down the street.
Gaijin Guranto 